Tuesday, 31 July 2012

Quiet Day in Beardrop

July 31: We just left the anchor where it was, quite sure it would hold through anything today brought. The OPP were around to check on people and take collision reports after last night.



The guy in this little Grampian 23 stayed as well. He has been up the Welland and into all 5 Great Lakes since leaving Toronto in early June. I don't think we're going to pull that one off.

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Beardrop Harbour Mayhem

July 30: The sun has set not long ago, but we have not gone below. We are watching for squalls in Beardrop Harbour. There's a nasty looking line that has swept through the Soo and is headed our way. Coast Guard warns to expect torrential rains, winds to 45 knots, hail, lightning, fire and brimstone. I'm hoping at least some of that doesn't materialize. Modern connectivity allows me to watch live radar feed for the area on my phone. I'm not sure if that's better than the old fashioned version where we just watched the sky.





Today we had blueberry pancakes for breakfast and shared a little with Rod and Allison while looking over the charts. We both set out westward around 1030. We took an inside route direct to Little Detroit, then along the north shores of Aird and John Islands. We sailed all the way in winds that oscillated quite a bit in speed and direction between 0 and 15 from the south to the west. It was a beautiful sail in beautiful country. We saw lots of other places we could easily have picked, then settled on Beardrop Harbour at about 1500. Once in, it was clear we weren't the only ones with that idea and we shared the large harbour with 20 or 25 other boats.

Dinner was T-Bone Steaks as big as our heads. We planned for leftovers, but somehow there were none ;-)

I didn't want to post this until I knew how it ended. The squall rolled in about 2240 after being visibly violent on the horizon for quite a while. Laura says it peaked at 2257 and we were back to moderate winds and still raining heavily by 2330. At peak I saw gusts of 44 knots, with sustained winds in the high 30s. There was some carnage in the harbour. Many boats dragged and radio traffic indicates at least one collision. I think I saw it happening, a sailboat dragging sideways downwind at about 3 knots. Most of the power cruisers were in motion by the end of it, but they seem to have upped anchor and powered to more or less hold station. One of the sailboats that dragged has his running lights reversed, with red on the starboard side, making it difficult to figure out his motions. In our running commentary we referred to him as "the moron".




We held rock solid. So did the boats right around us, so it wasn't as exciting as it might have been. Also, there was next to no fetch so the waves were minor. I had the engine running just in case, but found no use for it. The light show was really intense! I enjoyed it a lot more once the lightning was behind us, lighting up the whole harbour and making it clear where everybody wound up.

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Sunday, 29 July 2012

Little Current to Eagle Island

Quote of the Day July 28: "Not a cloud in the sky, horizon to horizon, sunset will be dreary!"

And it was like that all day too, which meant pretty limited wind. Still, we managed to sail much of the way from Covered Portage Cove, down the Lansdowne Channel, and around to Little Current in a hint of breeze from the East. We had to hang around a while before the 3 o'clock swing allowed us past the bridge, into the channel, and on to downtown Little Current. The bridge is celebrating its centennial this year and somebody said he thought it was the oldest swing bridge in North America.

Since I was last here, the Port of Little Current has dramatically expanded and improved the transient docking facilities. The whitefish is still delicious at the Anchor Inn, and they still have free wireless, but so does the whole harbour now. We had a finger dock fairly close to shore on A dock at the west end of town. A little farther out would have been good, since we brushed the bottom on our way back out.

We made phone contact with Allison and Rod in Gore Bay and agreed on a general direction and radio contact for the next day. Then we walked the length of the wall, noticed some enormous power yachts from Grosse Pointe, and picked up some smoked fish at Wally's on the pier.

Ice cream for dessert is always good!

July 29: The wall, or the docks at the east end would have put us closer to the grocery stores for provisioning this morning, but the load was still manageable. The fridge is packed with meat and vegetables again. We did most of our shopping at the Valumart then rounded it out with some lamb from the Foodland. Definitely a good provisioning stop. There's also a butcher at the bottom of the hill, unfortunately closed on Sundays.

Although the forecast called for SW, the wind was persistently on the nose as we motored out of LC, up and around Clapperton Island, and past the Benjamins. We were still motoring when we saw Leading Edge appear from behind Hook Island under sail. At that point we were able to bear off for the only half hour of sailing we got today, down to the east end of Eagle Island. We followed them up the back of the island to anchor in the bay.





The sailboat symbol in the lower middle of the chart shot is the famous Benjamins anchorage, the must see of North Channel cruising.

After getting the boat settled we went over to Leading Edge for the rest of the afternoon to compare notes on our adventures, with cool drinks and fresh cherries. We only adjourned for dinner, fresh whitefish on their boat and ours. Ours was certainly delicious, with Greek salad and potatoes, and fresh strawberries for dessert. Grocery days are really good.



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Friday, 27 July 2012

Bad River to Killarney Bay

July 26: It's always easier getting out, no angst just following the plotter track we came in on. Motored until there was room, then reached off uneventfully under NE breeze almost all the way into Killarney.

We stopped at Killarney Mountain Lodge for a fill and empty on the way into the channel, then on to the brand new docks at Pittfield's General Store. We got some groceries, did laundry, and heard from Richard and June on their way in through Lansdowne Channel. We took advantage of the fish and chips fresh off the boat while the dryers spun.

We docked next to June and Richard at the Lodge. The grocery selection in Killarney is limited, but we managed steaks and mushrooms for six between two BBQs, with fresh salad and beans imported by Will and Sandra. It was great to see some familiar faces and enjoy dinner on First Light III. After dinner we enjoyed live entertainment in the Lodge bar, with the added plus that we were indoors through the mosquito hour. Probably the most time we have spent indoors so far this month ;-)

July 27: Patched the head tank up this morning, as the old patch had slipped a little in the pounding on the way to Bad River.

Then off down the channel and barely out of site of town to Powderhouse Bay. Repeated tries found only weed and chocolate pudding with the anchor, so we moved up to Covered Portage Cove where we found much better holding, halfway out into Killarney Bay with a nice breeze from the NE. Even the outer part of the Cove is well populated today.




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Richard's Island to Bad River

We stayed another day at the Richard's Island anchorage and it was a busy place. In addition to the usual boat traffic, the same seaplane landed and took off right beside us enough times we got kinda blasé about it. But it started out exciting, so there are pictures. The little lodge in the background is a step up from most of the local cottages, but there's plenty of posh real estate.




July 24: We headed out about 0815, but it was well after nine by the time we cleared the rocks of Point au Baril Channel. It was a beat into messy waves, but with a bonus wind shift at about 1400 that let us tack through about 40 degrees so we were at anchor in Bad River well before dinner time. These rocky entries and exits are a little nerve wracking, but the sights once you get in make it worth it!




There is rock all around us, with some Group of Seven trees and a family of vultures soaring on the thermals from the sun soaked rocks. We are sharing the anchorage with 4 other boats, 3 of them sail and there's almost a quarter moon showing as the sun sets amidst high, wispy, fair weather clouds.




Tonight is our sixth night at anchor since leaving Tobermory, so we are scraping the bottom of the barrel for sustenance. Tonight was Fusili Alfredo with Crab. Obviously we need to rush to Killarney for supplies. And for connectivity, as there's only a hint of a signal down here amidst the rocks. And to meet up with June and Richard if we are going to see them before they head south.

July 25: Supplies will have to wait! Spent a gorgeous morning doing nothing much at anchor, then took the dinghy up the Devils Door Rapids. With low water it's just a fast moving bit of water between the rocks. Once up I switched to oars. Last time I was here I hit a rock and broke the shear pin less than 50 metres further up. This is part of the lower reaches of the French River, a fissured coastline almost like a delta of granite, with water and marshy clay caught in the cracks. Much of the marsh is now high and dry, and marsh plants are moving out onto the exposed surfaces. Except for the granite. There's about three feet along the granite waterlines that's missing the long term growth of lichen.




The anchorage is filling up today, with another half dozen power boats in by lunch time, probably to shelter from the southerlies that could make it to 20 this afternoon. Speaking of lunch time...

After lunch the weather "dis-improved" to persistent rain and occasional strong winds. It's the first day so far to get me thinking that one of those full cockpit enclosures might be nice, as we sit below eating our dinner (tomato and wild rice casserole with corned beef and cheese). The wind has gotten lighter and moved around to the north east, which should be good for tomorrow.




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Monday, 23 July 2012

Franklin Island to Richard's Island

July 22: One should really know enough to avoid any place named Shoal Narrows. True to its name, it was really narrow, and shallower than indicated on the chart.

We started the day with pancakes at Franklin Island, then motored upwind out the channel to the Bay. Turning up Shawanaga Inlet let us unroll the genoa for an extended reach down to Turning Island, where we took the inland turning up around Tonches Island, almost to Point au Baril Station. These tight turns and occasional shallows negotiated successfully, we rounded the lighthouse and decided to give Nares Inlet a try.

The entry is tricky and exposed, but well marked on the water and the plotter. There's one shallow spot that could be a problem if the Bay waves were bigger, but the day had been fairly light. Once in, there's a nice little bay, then a couple of turns, then the narrows (marked with a fish because a pushpin or a house seemed wrong).




We approached slowly and were doing well until the tightest part, where there's about 20 feet between the buoys. The thump was gentle, but brought us to a halt and the little bit of current turned us sideways. There was deeper water just ahead of us, so Laura took the anchor out forward. Rotating the boat got us about four feet further, but we weren't getting any more, so it was time to kedge out the way we came in. The people in the cottage overlooking the narrows came out in their outboard and offered help. We thanked them, and said we would try it slowly and gently on our own for now. With the anchor out in deep water behind us, I was able to pull us back out by hand and we hung there for a little while tidying up.

Remember the nice little bay? We went back there and anchored, snacked a little and made dinner plans. We would have been good for the night, but the 1830 forecast had a wind warning for Georgian Bay. We would have been fine in the bay, but getting out could have been dodgy. Once again, we went out the way we came in, back past the lighthouse and into a very well protected bay off the channel facing Richard's Island. We were settled in early enough for steak before sundown and scrabble before the light faded completely.






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Saturday, 21 July 2012

Wingfield Basin to Franklin Island

July 21: It was just like a typical Partridge Bowl (happening in Kingston today), a close spinnaker reach that eventually requires a takedown as the SW wind backs a little or the course titans up... except this one took us all the way across Georgian Bay, about 40 miles at over 7 knots most of the way. Today's conditions were definitely worth waiting for.

Out in the middle of the Bay we met up with a wayward and exhausted Dragonfly. He settled in on the corner of the companionway and didn't budge for over an hour. Then he flew around the boat for 10 or 15 minutes before we lost track of him. I don't know if he stayed aboard somewhere we didn't see, or even if he had ridden with us since Wingfield. He was certainly huge, more than 3" head to tail!




We came in past Savage Rocks and a whole lot of other named rocks at the south end of Franklin Island. There were lots of Georgian Bay White Dolphins frolicking as we passed. (The waves really do look like dolphins when they break and splash!) We came up the inside channel behind Franklin, quite cautiously in some of the shallow and tight spots, then dropped our anchor near the north end.







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Tobermory to Wingfield Basin

July 19: We took it easy this morning, enjoyed our coffee and tea watching the traffic and savouring the cool air we had been missing for most of the trip so far. We made a trip to the grocery store for a well filled cart full of heavy groceries, especially drinks, then wheeled the cart all the way back to the boat along the docks. It was smoother than expected and we were very conscious that shopping carts could probably plunge as easily as young girls on bicycles, but there were no mishaps in either direction.

We topped off the tanks, then motored out for a look at Flower Pot Island. The island is unremarkable until you come around the corner where two flower pot stone formations show up really well from offshore. The view from the lake lets you see the geology as a whole, with many similar structures visible. Unfortunately it was a little lumpy out for pictures, so you'll have to look up the Five Fathom National Park website.

We tacked outside Bear's Rump Island, then back towards Wingfield. The 15+ NE gradually faded to zip and we motored the last few miles to get in by about 1800. We were sharing the basin with just two other boats until a third came in about 1900 as we were making dinner.

After dinner we dinghied over and explored the ruins of Gargantua, a huge wooden tug that apparently burned to the water line after being run aground in the basin. (Google says there was 20 years between the grounding and the fire, likely started by a careless sailor's BBQ in the early 1970s, which sort of takes the romance out of it.) With the water being so low, a lot of the structure is revealed above the water. There's a cottage on shore that looks directly out over the wreck, which must be interesting.




The wind is coming up now, but we are snug in a very well protected harbour.









July 20: With the wind still up from the east, we decided on another lazy day in harbour. More determined souls ventured out through the cut, but with reduced sail.




I spent the morning wiring up and playing with the circuitry designed to monitor the engine speed. For those who care, it's a voltage divider with a Zener diode to shape the decay waveform off the coil into a single TTL pulse per spark event. The result is something I can monitor with an Arduino micro controller to track and record, and even act on engine speed, temperature, oil pressure, etc. I have no good reason why, other than the idea of a computer monitored Atomic 4 being perversely amusing.

Laura spent the morning at least equally well, reading murder mysteries.

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Thursday, 19 July 2012

Deja Vu

Last night at sunset I fished a bicycle out of deep water with an anchor...again.





A girl, riding along the dock, missed a turn at the corner above and drove into 15 feet of water. It was clear enough that some reached for boathooks while I was getting the anchor. Yes, the girl had already been pulled out.

I got it on the second cast. A cold and grateful girl went home with Laura's rescue sweatshirt to keep her from shivering.

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Wednesday, 18 July 2012

Pointe au Barques to... Tobermory

July 17: There was more wind than expected at anchor last night and there was still about 20 WSW when we set off this morning. After about half an hour of close reaching to go across the bay and up the American side, with gusts over 25, Laura asked how far to Kincardine. I was thinking something similar, so now we are on a fast and fun broad reach towards Tobermory, which will be about a 90 mile day.

Part of cruising is being ready to follow the wind. The American shore of Huron doesn't look much more interesting until the very top, so we will detour back to the Canadian side where we know it's interesting.

The wind clocked substantially, as forecast, so we came up to close hauled in the early afternoon. The waves were still huge and behind us. Surfing while close hauled is an odd experience, but one worth repeating!

The wind died at sunset and we motored on to Tobermory, tying up about 0300 right across from the gas dock. There's red flashing radio mast or something that's visible 20 miles out from Cape Hurd, while the actual Cape Hurd red nav light is only visible 7 miles out. The two of them lead us right into the inside approach, where the buoys are reflective, but not lit.

We slept late this morning and are having a lazy day on shore. The harbour is busy with dive boats and glass bottom tour boats and all the tourists needed to fill them. We just watched the ferry load and leave for Manitoulin Island. Tobermory is focused around the harbour, with all the services you need (and plenty you don't) all right there. Ports like this are really nice to visit and Tobermory has plenty of transient sail traffic passing through or staying a day or two like us.



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